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[REAL] Photon3K-First DIY retina projector (2880x1800) - Photo Heavy

n°203074
electroncr​az91
Posté le 21-03-2014 à 22:13:41  profilanswer
 

Reprise du message précédent :
Ballast arrived! I couldn't believe how heavy it was! The Solis 400w-600w ballast weighs 10 pounds and is 40x15x9 cm! Way better and heavier than my 400w chinese ballast. Grabbed it used on ebay for $120 (barely used, slight scratch, had everything included on it). This monster is so heavy I will have to take it out of the projector in order to move it. Now onto the bulb test, my chinese ballast couldn't sustain the arc (due to cheapness?), but the Solis started it right away on the 400w setting! I didn't want to run the bulb for long (no active cooling). During warm up there was flicker but the flicker evened out as the bulb went towards steady state temperatures. I don't think I got the bulb to steady state but dang the light and heat coming off that thing was something I've never seen before! Can't wait to put this badboy in and project during the day! Next project is to make the light box with quiet cooling.
 
SolisTek 400w/600w STK600  
http://www.seedsetc.com/images/SOLISTEK600WBALLAST.jpg

n°203095
electroncr​az91
Posté le 17-04-2014 à 16:04:52  profilanswer
 

Lamp box is almost complete. Still need to align bulb in the light box. I designed it so I can bend the aluminum to accommodate any differences in bulb manufacturing or make minor adjustments. I will do the bulb alignment by eyesight. I figured it out! The "gap" in between the arc lamp's electrodes needs to be reflected back towards the "gap" with the reflector. This must be true at all angles of the reflector! Basically the reflector needs to be positioned perfectly and at the right height for this to work. Alignment by caliper or micrometer is not sufficient, the bulb could be manufactured at a different size! Maybe I'll make a video or tutorial for this...
 
http://i.imgur.com/pVBwH3M.jpg?2
Height adjustment for reflector :) Just a pipe coupling.
 
http://i.imgur.com/YJMCOTr.jpg?1
 
http://i.imgur.com/euU45pc.jpg?1
 
http://i.imgur.com/xAl0AS4.jpg?1
Push pull fan setup.
 
 
http://i.imgur.com/I3Hw55Y.jpg?1
I found a n-channel mosfet (one with big heatsink on it) and used the arduino's PWM to adjust the speed relative to the thermistor (on the solderless breadboard) using any mathematical function and limits. I also set up a fail safe if the bulb got too hot, it would shut down and keep the fans on to cool it. I had to change the timer prescaler so the PWM frequency could not be heard. Factory setup was like 600Hz, I had to mess with the prescaler timers to get it to 61kHz.  :D


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 17-04-2014 à 16:09:07
mood
Crieto
Posté le 17-04-2014 à 16:04:52  profilanswer
 

n°203096
electroncr​az91
Posté le 18-04-2014 à 00:56:27  profilanswer
 

Here's how I aligned the bulb and to show you do not need any measuring tools. Because of the inconsistencies of measuring an imperfect bulb (quartz envelope could have drooped during manufacturing and produce oval lamp) measurements of the inside is nearly impossible, so why not do it by sight and make it easier!
 
First you'll notice the bulb reflection in the mirror and it moves around when the spherical mirror is moved around. You'll also notice the reflection can get bigger or smaller when the mirror is close and far away from the bulb. The goal is to move the mirror so the bulbs' reflection is not seen.
http://i.imgur.com/nvmHwlI.jpg?2
 
Looks centered, but not perfect!
http://i.imgur.com/ghY14fP.jpg?2
 
Here you can see the bulbs' reflection through the bulb! Notice the reflected electrode is still visible. Move the mirror around to hide the reflection behind the electrode.
http://i.imgur.com/QRcK5IT.jpg?2
 
Now look at the bulb at another angle, see the bulb's reflection below the electrode? It moves around when you change angles, you do not want to see the reflection at all when you look at the mirror at different angles. If the top is centered well, and the reflection deviates from overlapping the electrode as you look at a lower angle, that means the mirror is too close or too far. Adjust the height of the mirror so the electrodes are at the radius (center) of the mirror.
http://i.imgur.com/bfaqj4W.jpg?1
 
Now you shouldn't see any bulb ghosting or reflections of the electrodes when you look at the setup at different angles. This is what it should look like when the bulb is aligned. Notice how precise this is down to the .1mm.  
http://i.imgur.com/scYQM5L.jpg?1
 
Look at it from the top and make sure the electrodes are still overlapped with the reflection and let the glue set! Done! :sol: If it is not perfect like this, the gap and the reflected gap will not be a single point. That could result in fuzzy corners, aberrations, loss of light, and dark corners. If you plan on using a mirror like this, plan on adequate cooling, the bulb is basically reflecting back it's heat towards its self right through the bulb, so direct extra air at the bulb but not too much! You want the bulb to run hot (according to Osram), with even heat around the quartz envelope. Heat differences can cause lamp life to shorten. You can clearly see my light box has a "guide" to concentrate more air over the lamp/reflector and I have added a push pull setup for total control of temperature. The heat coming off the lamp and back to the other fan will be read with a thermistor, which will set the fan speed by the Arduino.


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 18-04-2014 à 01:21:03
n°203098
electroncr​az91
Posté le 19-04-2014 à 17:55:48  profilanswer
 

Another goal for the Photon3k is a quiet operation. I'm going to wear headphones while this thing runs, but I wanted to make it as quiet as possible. I used a lot of weatherstripping seal tape. Works good for sealing out stray light and also sound deadening!
 
 
http://i.imgur.com/ZCjTZb3.jpg?1
 
The fan never touches the box. It is only in contact with the foam. The fan is not screwed in, but "wedged" under the pressure of the foam.
http://i.imgur.com/7DoRkcd.jpg?2
 
Also seals between the fan and box.
http://i.imgur.com/iGyeGzm.jpg?2
 
 :)


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 19-04-2014 à 17:57:57
n°203099
electroncr​az91
Posté le 21-04-2014 à 19:16:35  profilanswer
 

Got most the wiring done, just need to wire in the lamp hour meter and the ballast. So far everything works!
http://i.imgur.com/cisINcB.jpg?2

n°203101
abradatanu
Posté le 25-04-2014 à 09:55:20  profilanswer
 

Hi electroncraz91
 
Very interested in your project as I already had a WUXGA build with 575w original Osrams for quite some time now and although it is an awesome projector it lacks in terms of contrast, colours and resolution (especially resolution as I'm projecting a 110" image from 2.8 meters :))
 
I am really considering upgrading my screen as currently I'm using an LG Phillips WUXGA with a Pixelworks controller, but I'm worried the LG screed will be too dark as it's an IPS panel and I know they block a lot of light. What caught my eye while reading your thread is the brightness you got with the 35w xenon and 330mm condenser fresnel. Although I can't really tell the size of the screen in those tests, it looks like the panel has great transmissivity.
 
Do you think that with the 575W HMI, that you want to use now, you'll get enough lumens through the panel and on the screen to produce a watchable 100" image?
 
As I said I can't wait to see some results of your projector with the 575 in place and hopefully it shouldn't be too dark
 
Alex

n°203102
electroncr​az91
Posté le 25-04-2014 à 21:29:46  profilanswer
 

abradatanu a écrit :

Hi electroncraz91
 
Very interested in your project as I already had a WUXGA build with 575w original Osrams for quite some time now and although it is an awesome projector it lacks in terms of contrast, colours and resolution (especially resolution as I'm projecting a 110" image from 2.8 meters :))
 
I am really considering upgrading my screen as currently I'm using an LG Phillips WUXGA with a Pixelworks controller, but I'm worried the LG screed will be too dark as it's an IPS panel and I know they block a lot of light. What caught my eye while reading your thread is the brightness you got with the 35w xenon and 330mm condenser fresnel. Although I can't really tell the size of the screen in those tests, it looks like the panel has great transmissivity.
 
Do you think that with the 575W HMI, that you want to use now, you'll get enough lumens through the panel and on the screen to produce a watchable 100" image?
 
As I said I can't wait to see some results of your projector with the 575 in place and hopefully it shouldn't be too dark
 
Alex


 
Well these test pictures were taken in a pitch dark room. At a 20 ft projection on the wall (13 ft perpendicular from wall), your eyes need to adjust to the dark to see the colors (at first it looks like your colorblind). At a 7 ft projection on the wall (5ft perpendicular), the colors pop out almost instantly. I did not test the 575W HMI yet, the stupid Chinese bulb is not sustaining the arc and I have a real Osram coming. :) But when the lamp does strike, the light output looks promising, enough to watch movies without covering the windows. Compared to another LCD I had, the retina is very dark when off. I haven't compared then while both are displaying white but I can make a good assumption that the retina is the dark one, because there are more thin film transistors squeezed in a small grid; however, the retina was manufactured to run with an LED backlight.
 
What ballast brand did you use for your 575w HMI?


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 25-04-2014 à 21:37:41
n°203103
abradatanu
Posté le 25-04-2014 à 22:22:00  profilanswer
 

I'll have to get back to you on the ballast model as I'm not home at the moment, but I know it's from a studio light fixture I found for cheap and it's a magnetic one
 
With my WUXGA panel I get around 300 lumens on a 110" screen measured with a lumen meter using the ANSI 9 point test, I can kind of watch this with my one fluorescent light on in my room. I am now at a crossroads, I want to upgrade to either the retina panel or LG LP154WU2 which supposedly has a higher colour gamut and better contrast. I know if I go with the LG panel I will get more or less the same brightness I get now. I really don't know about the retina IPS.
 
Also another question, you said the retina has a mirror film on its back. So if you're having and upright design with a first surface mirror, then you must have the panel with the mirror side facing the fresnel lenses. If so you have the exact same setup I had as my panel previously had a mirror film on its back and I removed it. The reason I removed it was that part of light passing through the fresnels and reaching this reflective layer on the panel got reflected back onto the fresnel that was closest to the panel thus illuminating it in a weird way and so a bright ring and spot were visible in the projection. At first I thought the fresnels were to blame so I replaced them, same problem and then I removed the film and the issue has lessened but it's still there.
 
If you have a straight shooter design the panel will be facing the fresnel lenses the other way which is not nearly as reflective as the mirror film. Did you ever see any similar issues in your projection?
 
Sorry for hijacking your thread but your results with the osram 575 will help me decide whether to go the retina way or not
 
by the way I love the enclosure stained finish  
 

n°203104
electroncr​az91
Posté le 26-04-2014 à 00:11:18  profilanswer
 

abradatanu a écrit :


Also another question, you said the retina has a mirror film on its back. So if you're having and upright design with a first surface mirror, then you must have the panel with the mirror side facing the fresnel lenses. If so you have the exact same setup I had as my panel previously had a mirror film on its back and I removed it. The reason I removed it was that part of light passing through the fresnels and reaching this reflective layer on the panel got reflected back onto the fresnel that was closest to the panel thus illuminating it in a weird way and so a bright ring and spot were visible in the projection. At first I thought the fresnels were to blame so I replaced them, same problem and then I removed the film and the issue has lessened but it's still there.
 
If you have a straight shooter design the panel will be facing the fresnel lenses the other way which is not nearly as reflective as the mirror film. Did you ever see any similar issues in your projection?


 
Retina does have reflective film on back. I'm scared to remove it because it could be the polarizer! :ouch: But I haven't had a problem with rings or any spots. Fresnels are .2mm pitch, LCD is sandwiched between the fresnels with the LCD mirror side towards the light source. This creates a double reflection of the light and points back towards the light source. If you line things up with the lamp reflector and the "reflected spot" the light should be bounced through the lamp's reflector and back up again towards the LCD, sort of like a laser? Maybe the mirroring is better? (why would LG put the mirroring on it in the first place?) I'll have to see when the lamp comes in. But I can use the mirroring to pinpoint the "reflected spot" onto the light source and align things very easily.

n°203105
abradatanu
Posté le 26-04-2014 à 00:33:29  profilanswer
 

My ballast is Huaquan HQ230050WT575Z ballast for high pressure sodium 575w 95V 7.0A  
 
Have you considered that it might be your ballast that can't sustain the arc? Maybe it can't put out the required amps or voltages to sustain the 575?  
 
And I didn't realize you had a split design, with one fresnel before and the other after the panel. Aren't you afraid the fresnel after the panel will affect the image quality, even more so when you have a panel like the retina. Have you considered doing an unsplit design?
 
My projector is unsplit with both fresnels 25mm away from the panel so that must be why I get the rings then.

mood
Crieto
Posté le 26-04-2014 à 00:33:29  profilanswer
 

n°203106
electroncr​az91
Posté le 26-04-2014 à 01:02:25  profilanswer
 

abradatanu a écrit :

My ballast is Huaquan HQ230050WT575Z ballast for high pressure sodium 575w 95V 7.0A  
 
Have you considered that it might be your ballast that can't sustain the arc? Maybe it can't put out the required amps or voltages to sustain the 575?  
 
And I didn't realize you had a split design, with one fresnel before and the other after the panel. Aren't you afraid the fresnel after the panel will affect the image quality, even more so when you have a panel like the retina. Have you considered doing an unsplit design?
 
My projector is unsplit with both fresnels 25mm away from the panel so that must be why I get the rings then.


I talked to SolisTek and they said the bulb met their requirements, but was "untested". It runs at the same voltage as the bulb and does 650watts at most. I'm thinking the Chinese lamp leaked out, I don't trust it.  And with the fresnel setup, I can disassemble and do an unsplit setup on it if I want. The lenses need to be very clean though. Do you have pictures of your setup?

n°203109
abradatanu
Posté le 26-04-2014 à 08:30:11  profilanswer
 

Don't wanna clog up your thread, I will PM you the pictures

n°203111
Andrea72
Posté le 04-05-2014 à 13:12:49  profilanswer
 

Hello, i read that you have a little double image, probably from the film in retroof display, no ... i removed the film , the image is near with it, difference= 0/5% then don' risk to remove, i chanGED the mirror , i used an old izzotek mirror and with that no double image but is too much little for 15,4' display, so i think the problem is the mirror, i think u have a chinese mirror with back blue/green, the mirror from izzotek is all argent , good quality.

n°203112
Andrea72
Posté le 04-05-2014 à 13:14:28  profilanswer
 

p.s. i think u need to refresh the display too with fan , with my 700w after 2 min the display go black , with fan no problem, the light is hot like the the bulb.

n°203114
abradatanu
Posté le 22-05-2014 à 00:55:52  profilanswer
 

Andrea72 a écrit :

Hello, i read that you have a little double image, probably from the film in retroof display, no ... i removed the film , the image is near with it, difference= 0/5% then don' risk to remove, i chanGED the mirror , i used an old izzotek mirror and with that no double image but is too much little for 15,4' display, so i think the problem is the mirror, i think u have a chinese mirror with back blue/green, the mirror from izzotek is all argent , good quality.


 
I am using a first surface mirror so that's not the problem, I flipped the LCD and the ring has disappeared completely. I just need to figure out a way to invert everything on screen as using Windows you can only rotate the image and not flip it.
 

mood
Crieto
Posté le 22-05-2014 à 00:55:52  profilanswer
 

n°203115
abradatanu
Posté le 22-05-2014 à 00:58:17  profilanswer
 

Any progress on this, did your bulb arrive?
 
Just noticed that Rosznyo has about 17 boards available and I'll soon start looking for a panel  :D

n°203116
Andrea72
Posté le 22-05-2014 à 13:22:10  profilanswer
 

abradatanu a écrit :


 
I am using a first surface mirror so that's not the problem, I flipped the LCD and the ring has disappeared completely. I just need to figure out a way to invert everything on screen as using Windows you can only rotate the image and not flip it.
 


where did you bought the mirror?

n°203117
abradatanu
Posté le 22-05-2014 à 14:08:46  profilanswer
 

Andrea72 a écrit :


where did you bought the mirror?


 
From an old OHP I had, it's pretty small but does the job

n°203118
ledia89
Posté le 25-05-2014 à 08:50:27  profilanswer
 

Good job. Can you send some pictures about it? I think i need it to Coque iphone 6s et etui housse cuir et film chargeur support


Message édité par ledia89 le 07-09-2015 à 11:37:39
n°203119
electroncr​az91
Posté le 25-05-2014 à 21:22:31  profilanswer
 

Sorry I haven't been up to date on stuff, this month has been busy getting finals from school done, doing maintenance on my car and I got a summer job. The projector has been on hold, but now I'm sliding back into the project. So the SolisTek Ballast isn't compatible with the Osram HMI. What I think it does is it ignites the bulb, but then the bulb heats faster than a conventional HQI or sodium (70mm arc) and the pressure increases faster than the ballast was programmed to deliver the current. Thus the bulb runs out of current and extinguishes. I'm sort of at a standstill unless someone has a compatible US 120V 60Hz ballast for the Osram 575W HMI. I've seen the HMI production light sets and those ballasts run from $500-$2000USD! No way I'd pay that much, what is essentially, a power supply! There's got to be some other electronic ballast that can run an HMI? If not, I'd have to design one if I can find some specs, or modify a real projector powersupply/ballast board for much less...
 
But I have the 200W led rigged in there right now. It's upstairs in my bedroom and its nice watching 4k youtube videos on a 20 foot wall. :) I just want the HMI to see better colors and watch stuff without blocking all the light in the room.

Message cité 2 fois
Message édité par electroncraz91 le 25-05-2014 à 21:36:35
mood
AdSPub
Posté le 25-05-2014 à 21:22:31  profilanswer
 

n°203120
abradatanu
Posté le 25-05-2014 à 22:50:20  profilanswer
 

electroncraz91 a écrit :

Sorry I haven't been up to date on stuff, this month has been busy getting finals from school done, doing maintenance on my car and I got a summer job. The projector has been on hold, but now I'm sliding back into the project. So the SolisTek Ballast isn't compatible with the Osram HMI. What I think it does is it ignites the bulb, but then the bulb heats faster than a conventional HQI or sodium (70mm arc) and the pressure increases faster than the ballast was programmed to deliver the current. Thus the bulb runs out of current and extinguishes. I'm sort of at a standstill unless someone has a compatible US 120V 60Hz ballast for the Osram 575W HMI. I've seen the HMI production light sets and those ballasts run from $500-$2000USD! No way I'd pay that much, what is essentially, a power supply! There's got to be some other electronic ballast that can run an HMI? If not, I'd have to design one if I can find some specs, or modify a real projector powersupply/ballast board for much less...
 
But I have the 200W led rigged in there right now. It's upstairs in my bedroom and its nice watching 4k youtube videos on a 20 foot wall. :) I just want the HMI to see better colors and watch stuff without blocking all the light in the room.


 
 
Now and then you should be able to find either electronic or magnetic ballasts designed specifically for 575 bulbs if you scour the internet for old projectors such as Liesegang dv 575 or Dukane Image Pro 8000 which use 575 metal halide bulbs.
 
You can olso find some ballasts in some OHP projectors like the 3M 9850 and others.
 
A quick search on projectorcentral.com  http://www.projectorcentral.com/se [...] tng=Search  for all projectors having a 575 metal halide bulb throws up plenty of models to choose from and hopefully you'll be able to find one on ebay or some other site quite cheap I might add as most of these projectors are dinosaurs.
 
Good luck and I hope you find one

n°203175
abradatanu
Posté le 16-10-2014 à 00:14:07  profilanswer
 

electroncraz91 a écrit :

Sorry I haven't been up to date on stuff, this month has been busy getting finals from school done, doing maintenance on my car and I got a summer job. The projector has been on hold, but now I'm sliding back into the project. So the SolisTek Ballast isn't compatible with the Osram HMI. What I think it does is it ignites the bulb, but then the bulb heats faster than a conventional HQI or sodium (70mm arc) and the pressure increases faster than the ballast was programmed to deliver the current. Thus the bulb runs out of current and extinguishes. I'm sort of at a standstill unless someone has a compatible US 120V 60Hz ballast for the Osram 575W HMI. I've seen the HMI production light sets and those ballasts run from $500-$2000USD! No way I'd pay that much, what is essentially, a power supply! There's got to be some other electronic ballast that can run an HMI? If not, I'd have to design one if I can find some specs, or modify a real projector powersupply/ballast board for much less...
 
But I have the 200W led rigged in there right now. It's upstairs in my bedroom and its nice watching 4k youtube videos on a 20 foot wall. :) I just want the HMI to see better colors and watch stuff without blocking all the light in the room.


 
 
Just wondering if you found any ballasts to power your lamp yet?  
 
I have given up on this as I kind of ran out of funding  :pfff:  but I'd still very much like to see what a 575 could do in this projector as from your results with the 35W Xenon it looks very promising and from what I know you're still the only one using the 15" retina screen in a DIY projector, at least the only one who's documented it.
 
I'd be great if you could give us an update?

n°203176
electroncr​az91
Posté le 16-10-2014 à 20:20:34  profilanswer
 

Sorry I haven't responded in awhile. I put the projector on hold for awhile. I still cannot find a proper ballast to drive the 575W. I heard an AC arc welder can sustain a short arc, but I haven't explored more options yet. Right now I'm using the 200W led in the projector, it's okay for now, but I really want to see that HMI in there! It's been setup with a 3 meter screen for awhile, but the room has to be dark. With the HMI, I won't have to worry about closing the blinds!
 
Right now, I'm stuck. It's hard to find a 575W ballast that is CHEAP. I can't find old projectors with their lamp ballasts, regular metal halide ballasts can't sustain the arc, used studio ballasts are too bulky and heavy and expensive, the list goes on.

n°203177
electroncr​az91
Posté le 18-10-2014 à 03:37:03  profilanswer
 

I may have found a ballast for $70USD shipped from an old projector that took at 575W single ended HMI! I'm waiting for the seller to contact me, but in the meantime here's some native resolution photos taken with a Nikon D5100 with a tripod with some 4K videos... http://i.imgur.com/OVi5sT7.jpg , http://i.imgur.com/SQYZDVk.jpg , and http://i.imgur.com/fBlhfh0.jpg. The photos look a bit out of focus, but with the new arc lamp should make them sharp. The LED really blends in the details and I'm still using a plain white wall.

n°203178
fakiuu
Posté le 21-10-2014 à 00:10:34  profilanswer
 

hola a todos desde españa.
electroncraz91 have you tied to bend the second fresnel lens in the corners
to eliminate the out of focus?. that it was a old solution in old projectors to eliminate the problem. i read in a thecnical document.

n°203179
electroncr​az91
Posté le 21-10-2014 à 01:53:43  profilanswer
 

fakiuu a écrit :

hola a todos desde españa.
electroncraz91 have you tied to bend the second fresnel lens in the corners
to eliminate the out of focus?. that it was a old solution in old projectors to eliminate the problem. i read in a thecnical document.


Yes, I was thinking about that and it would work, but the LED is just a temporary solution. Having a short arc lamp will get rid of that problem and make the projection more efficient. I didn't want to make a drastic mod of that yet because..... wait for it..
 
I bought it, I've found an old projector that ran a single ended 575W HMI for $70USD shipped! Davis Powerbeam II uses a single ended 575W HMI in a G22 Base, basically same as the double ended 575W I have. But here's the catch, the projector was sold as for parts/not working. I contacted the seller and he wasn't that informative whether or not it was actually parted out before. So I can't say 100% chance that the HMI ballast is in the thing, but I took my chance at a rare and cheap HMI ballast. :D The last few days I've been slaving away on eBay in search of a projector that ran an HMI lamp. This was the only one I could find after hours and hours of searching.
 
Even if the ballast does not work, I have the skills to repair it, so I'm okay with it not in working order. I plan on sketching a circuit schematic of it and posting it for other diy projects so other electrical engineers on Allinbox could replicate it instead of forking over $700-2000USD for an HMI ballast. :lol:


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 21-10-2014 à 01:59:29
n°203180
abradatanu
Posté le 25-10-2014 à 17:44:33  profilanswer
 

I've gotta admit I was drooling a bit over those pictures, the colour and contrast in them are fantastic and that's only with the 35W xenon!!!
Judging by the pictures the brightness is not bad at all, but what size were they.
 
That's great news that you've found a ballast and I hope you get it to work. If you do please post some pics of what it can do as I'm sure lots of us would be interested.
 
Enjoy your awesome projector   :)

n°203181
electroncr​az91
Posté le 27-10-2014 à 21:51:16  profilanswer
 

Projector Arrived  :D ! And I got lucky!  :bounce:  Davis Powerbeam II
 
http://i.imgur.com/RF31JUh.jpg?1
It works! Sold as broken. :) Yeah, so this thing is quite badass and works the same as a DIY LCD projector. It's got fresnels and a front surface mirror in it. the 575W HMI lamp fires and projects an okay bright image. I took pics beside a cloudy afternoon, so it's pretty bright considering an old bulb. I'll let the pics show this beast. It weighs almost 20 pounds, because the inside is mostly constructed of steel. I think this was a high end business projector around 1995.
http://i.imgur.com/EW7JP0k.jpg?1
 
This is interesting, the convex lens in front of the lamp is really huge and thick, bigger than any lens I have every seen! No wonder this thing is heavy! I think the lens was used to save lens focal length and the overall size of the projector. The fresnel shown is 8.4 inches as it uses a TFT LCD!
http://i.imgur.com/6awX2TV.jpg?1


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 27-10-2014 à 22:39:23
n°203182
electroncr​az91
Posté le 27-10-2014 à 22:03:48  profilanswer
 

Here is the bulb, standard 3.5inch hard drive for scale. :) 600hrs on a 1000 hour bulb.
http://i.imgur.com/1sFeiEC.jpg?2


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 27-10-2014 à 22:38:07
n°203183
electroncr​az91
Posté le 28-10-2014 à 23:10:16  profilanswer
 

Here's the inside of how it works. I'm amazed by the steel construction, its as strong as a tank! I noticed it tilts the LCD and fresnels so the keystone is somewhat built in. It is a F1->LCD->F2 setup, same as the Photon3K.  
http://i.imgur.com/NaiZfGI.jpg?1
 
Now for the ballast. I cannot reverse engineer the ballast since the board and all the components are dipped in this blue heat conducting stuff.  :pfff: Here's the sticker that was on the ballast. These kind of ballasts go for around $1200-2500USD, so I think a $70 *broken* projector was a steal. :)
 
http://i.imgur.com/ZhDt6ne.jpg?1

mood
Crieto
Posté le 28-10-2014 à 23:10:16  profilanswer
 

n°203184
electroncr​az91
Posté le 02-11-2014 à 20:28:38  profilanswer
 

Just got the HMI ballast rewired inside and fired her up!  :) I ran it without a condensing lens and no UV filter for a minute. Projection is clear and everything is in focus the way it should be; evenly lit from the center to the corners. This was tested while sunlight was through a window; however, I am not running a condensing lens and I am losing a lot of stray light. I can already tell the projection is brighter than the LED.  :bounce: I'm thinking of using the big condenser lens from the scrapped projector. It has some kind of UV coating protection on it and it was designed for an HMI's arc length. I think I have to redo my lamp housing for the new condenser lens to make the projection a lot brighter for the daytime.

n°203188
abradatanu
Posté le 07-11-2014 à 22:05:12  profilanswer
 

Fantastic news  :) and you got this really cheap as I paid for my ballast what would be in dollars about 160 USD  :ouch: and it's a heavy crappy magnetic one too
 
Anyway I suppose the downside to this is that you have to keep all the electronic boards that were in the projector in order to get the ballast to fire your lamp.
 
By the way, what was your image diagonal on the pictures you took of the 4K videos?
 
 

n°203189
electroncr​az91
Posté le 08-11-2014 à 04:40:06  profilanswer
 

abradatanu a écrit :


Anyway I suppose the downside to this is that you have to keep all the electronic boards that were in the projector in order to get the ballast to fire your lamp.
 
By the way, what was your image diagonal on the pictures you took of the 4K videos?


 
Not really, it says on the ballast it needs 5 volts to keep the lamp on. Built in optocoupler, perfect for Arduino :). Images were 1.5 meter diagonal. Those photos were taken with the LED. I'll have to upload pics with the arc lamp driven, they look so much better.
 
I'm trying to figure out the cooling for the lamp as I don't want to over cool or under cool. Here's some photos of lamp and the wiring to get a sense of what is going on. I don't want to touch this stuff while on! I kept the temperatures in Celsius for you folks.
http://i.imgur.com/ztctSwM.png
Lamp maxes out the specs of the camera :(
http://i.imgur.com/p40n61e.png
This was taken 1 minute with the lamp on and the door closed, it gets hot fast with no UV filter!
http://i.imgur.com/3zCFFLB.png
Taken 10 seconds after lamp shutoff. I hope the heat difference won't degrade the bulbs' life.
http://i.imgur.com/41h3sFt.png
Wiring doesn't seem hot to cause later issues.
http://i.imgur.com/nWdGYwL.png
Except the neutral between the EMI filter and the socket unit.
http://i.imgur.com/eSk2Qnu.png  
This is the Rozsnyó LCD controller showing that while it's not powering a backlight, a single transistor is warm to the touch.
http://i.imgur.com/MXybe5o.png
Here is the arduino, with a funny looking bracket on it. Yes that is a heatsink to cool the 5 volt regulator, I probably will need to solder a TO-220 regulator with a real heatsink, but for now this will work fine.

n°203192
electroncr​az91
Posté le 11-11-2014 à 22:28:26  profilanswer
 

I think the HMI is here to stay, although it get very warm in my room when in operation. Finally took some photos with the HMI working for 20 mins without heat issues! Here are some high resolution photos with the HMI. I was testing a condenser lens in the wrong position, so the corners appear a bit dark and out of focus. With no condensor lens, the projection is evenly lit and evenly focused. http://i.imgur.com/PoIY7aR.jpg and http://i.imgur.com/SNvdzcr.jpg


Message édité par electroncraz91 le 11-11-2014 à 22:29:56
n°203197
fakiuu
Posté le 14-11-2014 à 14:37:03  profilanswer
 

wow impressive image. how many inches its that projection. finally you make it. congratulations.

n°203198
fakiuu
Posté le 14-11-2014 à 19:27:04  profilanswer
 

im also trying with a 200w led ....my screen projection its 136 inches  3 meters wide. late i will test with the hmi but i want to tried more with the leds. taking the percentage between an original projector wich the arc its 2 mm and the display its 0,77 inch ....in comparison the leds its approximately the same percent ....the only difference its the lens witch its off the same sise of the lcd..... so adjusting whit different focal lenses maybe i found the answer....o maintain a good image with no optical aberrations.    

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